Monday, April 19, 2010

The first four days in Cape Town

We arrived on Thursday night just ahead of the volcano eruption luckily. Watched the sunrise in Amsterdam and sunset over the west coast of Africa that same evening - two different continents in one day. We took advantage of the beautiful sunny weather on the weekend to get oriented in the area. We took the cable up to the top of Table Mountain for an incredible view. I was most taken with the interdependence of the plants and animals in this harsh rocky environment. Why can't humans learn to support each other like this?
   We took a boat out to Robben Island where Nelson Mandella was imprisoned simply for being vocal about racial injustice. What affected me the most was the limestone quarry where prisoners toiled for 8 hours a day moving rocks back and forth for no purpose.  These bright men managed to communicate in a small cave in the wall - each one tells one. Their resiliance was so amazing. At the end of this ordeal to advocate truth and reconciliation was truly inspiring. One sign read: the journey is never long when the  destination is freedom. One prisoner, Robert Sobukwe, was kept in isolation and not allowed to speak for 6 years. His cell was smaller than the dog kennels and after this ordeal he lost the use of his vocal cords. He led the resistance in which blacks refused to carry ID cards during Aparteid. We also visited the District 6 museum that bears witness to a neighbourhood of black people who were forced to move and watch their houses demolished so that white people could have their land. The museum houses the artifacts they collected and saved from their old neighbourhood along with their stories and testimonies and memoried. This is a very powerful exhibit. '
   Cape Town is a city of extreme diversity - the rich and the poor or rather the privileged and the disenfranchised. I struggle with the question of my purpose here. Why do I bring students? What can we truly contribute to compensate all that we take away and learn? We are living in the suburb of Athlone where many of the resistance battles were waged. There is a large Muslim population and I awake every morning an hour before sunrise to the call to prayer on the loudspeaker from the mosque. This is very soothing. I am impressed with how well this mixed neighbourhood works together (much like the flora and fauna on the mountain top).
     Another interesting phonomenon we observed was the unique meeting of two ocean currents at the southern point of the continent - cold Antarctic water in the Atlantic meeting warm tropical water in the Indian Ocean. A lesson in contrasts of a different sort.
    I have decided to condense my journal entries each day into one key word. So far, day 1 is 'interdependence', day 2 is 'harmony', day 3 is 'reconciliation' and day 4 is 'connection'
    The students started teaching in the schools today. The classes are very large - 40 - 50 students per class. The school board will not hire a new teacher until the number is over 48. The classes need repairing and resources are scarce. Teachers are overworked, underpaid and burnde out. They make a valiant effort. Hopefully the extra pair of hands we can provide makes a difference. Students are struggling to learn unfamiliar names and learn routines while trying to teach lessons addressing the Western Cape curriculum. They are tired and a bit unsure of themselves at this point. There are lots of  questions as they struggle to find their footing outside their comfort zone.
    We had an interesting discussion about our purpose for being here. We are privileged to travel this distance to immerse ourselves in a different culture. For who's sake are we doing this? How do we reconcile the privileged and the disenfranchised? How do we as a nation contribute to this disparity? How can we make sense of our own sense of entitlement? The first few days we scrambled to make our electronics work, find hangers for our clothes, cope without a decent cup of coffee, have a hot shower and dry off with an extra small thin towel. One of the ladies that works in our accommodation has lived in one room here for 26 years. I admire her lack of desire for accumulating possessions. Another young boy travels 75 minutes by bus everyday from the townships just to sweep and clean up for very little wages. Another woman has come back to work here after caring for her husband who had his leg amputated. These people have the biggest smiles every day. I am in awe of their spirit. These are the lessons that surround me here every day. It is truly an honour to meet and work with these people.

1 comment:

Camille said...

We look forward to hearing more about your classroom experiences. We'd love to hear from the students. I've posted a link to your updates on the BLN as well.
Keep it up!